It did need to be stripped, sand-blasted and inspected for cracks. The frame required no real rebuilding, welding or gusseting. This machine was apparently in good condition. Ignition Coil Secondary Coil 8.20 kOhms (range 6.32-9.When the vintage ATC arrived at Duncan Racing, it was pulled completely apart with no nut or bolt left fastened. Ignition Coil Primary Coil 0.5 ohms (range 0.18-0.28 ohms) When holding the spark plug 1/4" - 3/8" away from head it will jump and spark to the head It gets a spark through the spark test light every time New Shindy Carb kit (made in Japan version) It is extremely sporadic when it fires but never runs for longer than 3 seconds.Ĭarb was cleaned with air hose and carb cleaner then into the ultrasonic cleaner with Aircraft aluminum cleaner Every once and a while it will start and sputter for 2 seconds. This bike is my brother in law's, it has 1199 miles on it and went from running great to dead with no start. My proficiency is with Hondas and Yamahas make me see RED! ATV is under warranty so I can get the parts but dealer appointments are a month out. Does anyone have any other ideas of what to look for? This issue is driving me crazy. For giggles I took it out and plugged it into another machine and read the voltage and it was showing.
#86 atc 250r manual
According to the manual it says that it should be about. One of the error codes that showed up was 636 - CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) might be faulty. I ended up purchasing a Check Tech and connected it to the machine and looked up error codes from history. I have replaced the spark plug, fuel pump (28-32PSI was the reason), cleaned out the exhaust for carbon build up (which there was none), replaced the battery, etc.
RPMs at idle are around 1250-1300 but if I rev it and let the RPMs drop back down it will either stop around 1250-1300 or it will just shut off. When I am riding I have to sometimes give it more throttle just to keep it going. I have a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 EPS UTE, that when idling for a few minutes after being warm will just shut off. Thinking about sinking a few hundred Kold Kutters into this extra set of tires and having a go at the ice this winter
😳😝🤣Īfter a few weeks of wrenching and part swapping and fixing and sweating and swearing and parting out - I nearly have a drivable quad… and a pretty damned nice one for my tastes at least. PO couldn’t get it to run, which turned out to be a combination of 4 stripped threads in the cam journals, and a “twist n’ tape” job on the damn stator wires. And a Houser chromoly stem! AND a big bore kit (JE Piston). So anyway, I traded it to someone more inclined toward two-wheeled adventures for an awfully clapped out DVX400 with a lot of Alba’s finest red anodized aluminum ding dongs all over it. Flipping thru the Clymer manual that came with it I found a stacked head gasket tucked inside. Replaced it’s timing chain and guides, re-tensioned, popped out the valves and cleaned them all up, all back together and the ticking persists. Well almost finished - timing was off for some reason, but before I could get it figured out I found someone to swap it with for a 94 XR200R with a strange ticking in the head. I recently posted about finishing up that LT160/230, Straightened that out and swapped for an ‘07 KX 85,Ĭleaned THAT up and traded it for a clapped out LTZ400 with OMF bead locks, ELKA shocks, HotCams, ProTaper bars,Īnd a serious case of “PO had no clue what they were doing”. Last year I bought a KFX80 mouse condominium for $500, It’s been a year of swapping and fixing and swapping and fixing and swapping….
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